30 YEARS OF SKINCARE: AN EVENING WITH SKINCARE EXPERTS IN LONDON (PART 1)

With the convergence of the official launch of Swissline in the UK and the celebration of Cell Shock’s 30th anniversary, we were honoured to welcome fabulous dinner guests Dr. Psomadakis, Dr. Ejikeme, Abigail James, and Emma Guns - all leading experts in the UK skincare sphere - to discuss the evolution of skincare over the last 30 years.  

CLASSIC SKINCARE STAPLES

The ’90s was not a time for complicated skincare routines or a large variety of products. In fact, well-known brands like Nivea, Olay, Vaseline reigned supreme when it came to simple hydrating skincare staples.

"But what about the standard person?" Dr. Ejikeme asked rhetorically. "What would they have in their cupboard? For most, a Nivea moisturizer in the 90’s meant you were doing quite well. There was also the shift in sunscreens, evidence really started getting popularized in sunscreens around the ’90s, I know Boots started their range of sunscreens around then."

Beauty journalist and podcaster Emma Guns added, "I remember going to Boots and spending 99 pence on skincare.”

"I used to buy my skincare at the local chemist," recalled facialist Abigail James.

BRAND COMMUNICATION AND TRANSPARENCY

Emma Guns raised an interesting point on the evolution of skincare marketing and consumer expectation in the 90s.

In the 90s I think, you were kind of buying ‘hope’...all brands found these naturally beautiful genetically blessed models and you were made to think these products could make you look like them. I spent the 90s being really dissatisfied with skincare – not getting the results. I think it began to change as we realized not only can you make these impressive changes but you can make it on a consumer-level.

THE EMERGENCE OF BOTOX

In addition to basic skincare, it was at this time that consumers were also introduced to minimally-invasive procedures. Licensed for use in 1997 by the FDA, the 1990s saw the emergence of Botox injections being popularized especially in the United States. This opened the door to cosmetic procedures in general, such as chemical peels:

Dr. Psomadakis explained:

Cosmetic procedures gained visibility in the 1990s to a certain extent. Botox had a license to be used and then we were seeing as we progressed through the 90s, early 2000s - those things being translated to what you could get at home, equivalent; chemical peels for instance done by actresses.

More on the cosmetic shift from Dr. Psomadakis:

From a Dermatology perspective, there was a big shift in adopting cosmetic dermatology as part of our remit...Dermatology as a speciality is relatively new. Initially they were dealing with skin disease and only probably from the 90s onwards did they encompass this area that overlaps with aesthetics.

ANTI-AGING EFFECTS OF AHA’S FIRST RECOGNISED

In 1992, Avon introduced their Anew line, becoming the first beauty brand to offer anti-aging skincare with Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA). This served as an industry-leading standard going forward.

Emma Guns elaborated, "It was the beginning of the fruit acids. AHA was the big thing. Everyone was going out with the big wide-brimmed hats and sunscreen following the treatment."

For our Brand Director, Custodio D’Avo, from a personal perspective, it was a decade where he realised that these ingredients could truly change his skin.

SKINCARE IN THE 2000S

With the ringing-in of a new decade came new trends and a new focus on ingredient-led skincare brands. Skincare such as Proactiv and Clearasil were marketed more as evidence-based especially for acne-prone skin, and the efficacy of ingredients became increasingly important. 

At the same time, there was a wave of plant extracts and organic ingredients coming to the forefront. Manufacturers started moving away from using animal and synthetically derived ingredients towards all or partial natural and organic ingredients.

BOTANICAL AND ORGANIC INGREDIENTS TAKING CENTRE STAGE

Speaking to the state of skincare in Switzerland, our Brand Director, Custodio d’Avo, weighed in:

In Switzerland, this is when there was a certain awareness of animal ingredients. Before that, in 2002, there were placenta and cellular extracts, but biological materials started to get replaced with biomimetics and biotechnological alternatives. No more animal ingredients.

From a personal perspective, Abigail James agreed that from 2000 onwards, organic started becoming a big thing for her, as she and her clients started using Dr. Hauschka.

For more insights and musings from these experts on skincare from 2010 to 2021 - everything from the medicalisation of skincare to the rise in skintellectuals and the power of skinfluencers - check out our next article, due to be published next week.